Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Cuddrireddra of Delia
Sometimes we digress from the task at hand but the cookbook will get some attention this month. This recipe and Sicilian specialty cookie - Cuddrireddra- is probably the main reason for starting to collect Nonna Falzone's recipes.

My grandmother was born and raised in Delia, Sicily and this cookie is only made there. It is like a twisted crown or a carousel and it is magical in taste and history. We always looked forward to eating it and also watching her make it.

Making these cookies would take her the whole afternoon and it involved such skill and fast finger work that it was fun just sitting at the edge of the table and watching. Now my sis and I are going to attempt to make these but I am not sure we have the skill to make them look as perfect as she did.

We were never allowed to help - a trait that Momma Dolce has inherited, as we would not do them properly so due to this none of my aunts or mum can make these cookies. So much for passing the recipe on.... we are definitely stubborn Sicilians! The recipe was in Nonna's head too and she used an odd plastic green cup to measure her ingredients. This cup was probably from one of our toy sets so the exact measurements were never written down.

I have collected the recipe from two aunts, one in Sicily and one in Toronto but I have to say that tasting theirs are amazing but not quite up to par with my grandmothers -I am allowed to play favourites, non?

The ingredients are simple: orange rind, cinnamon, wheat flour, water, eggs, red wine & lard. All deep fried in vegetable oil until they are golden brown.

When visiting family in Delia I visited a young entrepreneur Stefano Strazzieri who has taken this recipe which is so local to the community and has started making it and selling it abroad. Very clever as it is a great specialty and something so authentic to this town that getting it elsewhere is next to impossible. Now you can buy this treat in other parts of Italy and even get it shipped to the UK.

I brought home a tray from my trip and my flat mates did enjoy their Sicilian souvenir.

It is said that the crown like cookie was born as homage to the châtelaines that lived in the medieval fortresses, which dominated the city of Delia during the war of the Sicilian Vespers.

When we muster up the courage to make these with the guidance of Momma Dolce we will report back....

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

This is a wonderful article. I was born in Delia. However, the story I have heard is different than what is presented. The Cuddrireddra is a symbol of Sicilian slavery or prison. The coddro is dialect word that means the neck, and the cuddrireddra is a chain that was put around the neck. Personally, I don’t understand why someone would want to commemorate slavery or prison with such a wonderful treat, but I suspect there are thousands of traditions like this that have forgotten or strange meanings.

Dolce said...

I think there may be so many different stories about the name but your sounds pretty spot on too. I will have to go back soon and ask more questions! Happy Easter xo